Come on, Let’s Go – OBX to UP

After much planning and prep, we’re finally launched on our would-be year-long exploration of nooks, crannies and peaks of North America. The pin on the calendar was our beloved annual extended family gathering on the Outer Banks (OBX), from which we set off on August 2nd. So far, it’s been a bit of a quick march because we have a permit to canoe in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness on August 12th and we aim to explore the Canadian Rockies before the end of the summer season.

Ten days in, we’ve traveled 2,000 miles and we’re looking forward to stretching out our itinerary on the other side of Banff National Park. No more reservations, just boondocking and meandering through the pins in the map, stopping to enjoy new discoveries, or rerouting to avoid wildfire zones.

There’s a song that’s been coming up in our Walking Away from Work playlist by Front Country with the refrain, “Baby, come on let’s go / If something breaks, we’ll fix it on the road.” Yep, Chief Engineer Pablo had to troubleshoot a power issue that threatened A/C and, more concerning, refrigeration. It took 2+ hours in two sessions, required unloading the bikes and disgorging half the contents of the “garage” but he found that darn loose wire and got Evangeline back to full cooling strength.

Our route took us through Petersburg, VA (must return when we have time to fully explore the civil war battlefield on our bikes) and included a stay at Hee Haw Hollow Farm and Animal Sanctuary. Noted: avoid farm stays; too many flies. We also scored a campsite in New River Gorge National Park (WV) and hiked along Glade Creek in a roaring river state. After a brief and wonderful stay in Cincinnati with sister Beth and brother-in-law Greg (riverfront and Underground Railroad Freedom Center were highlights), we headed north into Michigan. The eastern shore of the lake is delightfully beachy and filled with folks with boats and bikes enjoying bright August sunshine and refreshing lakes (not just the “Greats”).

The Sleeping Bear Dunes were awe-inspiring, as was the 5-mile-long Mackinac bridge taking us into Michigan’s Upper Peninsula (UP). We enjoyed viewing three of the Great Lakes in one day and arriving at Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. Oh my, what beauty. Paul’s old friend and current UP resident, Chuck Ryall joined us for two nights in camp. We took a 5-mile kayak tour on Lake Superior – not arduous, just magical. The sedimentary cliffs feature fantastic horizontal layers, vertical seepage colors (some in pastel hues), caves, coves, arches, old and new rock falls (check out “back up, Brad!”), deep visibility below the water line, and gorgeous pines and birches lining the top. A bald eagle and a peregrine falcon added breathtaking moments.

We have been relishing the endless wildflower-lined roads, dotted with towns that are themselves dotted with flower baskets hanging from every light pole. Most of the folks we have chatted with along the way are Michiganders touring Michigan in their big RVs (there’s much beauty and recreation to justify their pride and parochialism ;-), but we did have the serendipity to run into peer campervan travelers – another couple in their 60s opting for the minimalism and fix it on the road (or do without) ethos. They shared many excellent tips on places to visit to stay on this voyage of discovery.

As we sail Evangeline toward the Boundary Waters, we’ve been chuckling over our growing list of roles and titles.

Paul’s:

• Chief Engineer
• Captain / Pilot
• Bike Mechanic
• Sous Chef

Catherine’s:

• Quarter Master
• DJ (Mate of the Watch)
• Executive Chef
• Task Master (someone’s gotta keep this operation moving on time ;-)

Wish us light breezes, biting fishes and minimal mosquitos on the South Kawishiwi River and nearby lakes in the Boundary Waters, and do comment – it’s such a treat to receive reactions and suggestions.